Slowing your shutter speed, also known as dragging the shutter, does the trick. Where a single image might look overly blurry, within the sequence it looks perfect. To keep a smooth timelapse, some blur in the individual frames is helpful. Because shooting a long timelapse sequence at full resolution in RAW takes up a lot of memory, be sure to use a high-capacity, fast card (we suggest Sony TOUGH SD cards) and make use of the second card slot for more shooting capacity. Also, by shooting in RAW you give yourself the ability to adjust white balance and some exposure latitude in post. That resolution lets you simulate complex camera movements and zooms in post without having to use a separate motion rig. The α7R III shooting at full resolution creates images that are 7952 x 5304. The best timelapses feature camera movement within a scene and while many pros use elaborate motorized support systems to move the camera between frames, you can simulate the powerful effect with your camera locked down on a tripod if you’re shooting at high resolution. Set MF in the camera or on the lens before you start shooting. The reason is simple: you don’t want the camera to hunt for and change focus between frames. If there’s one thing all timelapse shooters can agree on, it’s setting manual focus. In general, you’d want the interval to take priority so turn this on. As a dark cloud passes, the shutter speed can temporarily become longer than the two second interval. That can happen in a stormy sky situation when you set the interval for, say two seconds and you have the camera set to aperture priority or program exposure. Shoot Interval Priority lets you decide whether the interval or the shutter speed takes priority in the event that they conflict. A couple particularly practical reasons to do this are so that you’re not introducing the possibility of any vibration and by using the electronic shutter, you’re not racking up the count on your mechanical shutter. Set Silent Shooting in Intervalometer mode to on. We suggest you start with Medium and if you prefer smoother exposure changes, set to Low. Note, the camera automatically calculates how long it will take to shoot the sequence and shows it at the bottom of the screen.ĪE Tracking Sensitivity is an incredibly useful feature for “Holy Grail” timelapses (sunrise and sunset) and for scenes with clouds moving through where the light is changing. So, for a 30-second timelapse sequence, 30 * 24=720. Here are some starting intervals to get you in the ballpark:Īround one to two seconds for cityscapes and scenes with moving cars and for landscapes with fast clouds.Īround three to four seconds for landscapes with slower clouds.Īround one to three seconds for scenes with people moving.Īround 30 seconds for stars and astroscapes and for showing the sun moving across big swathes of sky.įor Number of Shots, calculate how long you want the sequence to be and multiply by 24 (you’ll export the final video at 24 frames per second). You’ll want to base the interval on the subject matter. Your Shooting Interval is the time from the beginning of one shot to the beginning of the next. This will start shooting the sequence three seconds after you press the shutter button which gives any vibration from pressing the button time to settle down before exposures begin. Within the Interval function, first, select Interval Shooting to On.įor Shooting Start Time, we suggest three seconds. (note, we’re using an α7R III with Firmware 3.0 so depending on your camera and firmware, the exact menu screens might be a little different). Go to Camera Tab1, Screen 4 where you’ll see Shoot Mode/Drive2 and select Intvl. To get your camera ready to shoot a timelapse, start by accessing the Internal Intervalometer. How to get your camera dialed in for a timelapse with the α7R III and α7 III using the built-in intervalometer Once you get your camera settings dialed in to a good starting point, we suggest you save the setup to one of the custom modes on the mode dial (have a look at our article 6 Sony Alpha Hidden Sleeper Features to see how to do that). And of course, that’s part of the allure. By definition, you’re capturing scenes where the light and composition is in flux. There’s a lot of trial and error in making a timelapse. Here are some tips to get the camera set up for making a timelapse using the built-in controls. With Firmware 3.0, the α7R III and α7 III ( as well as the Sony α6400) now have a built-in timelapse intervalometer.
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